One Week in Scotland Without a Car

When you think of Scotland, the first things that pop into your mind are probably kilts, whisky, and golf. But there is so much more to Scotland than that! I loved the people, the nature, and the history around every corner. We stayed around Edinburgh and took a few day trips to nearby cities. The train system is fantastic, which is how we got around one week in Scotland without a car!

We spent 8 days and 7 nights in Edinburgh in April 2022, which was perfect because all the flowers were in full bloom and there weren't a bunch of other tourists (always this anxious traveler's favorite perk).

Traveling to Scotland

If you are flying from the US or Canada, you will likely fly into Edinburgh or Glasgow. On this one week in Scotland without a car itinerary, you need to fly into Edinburgh. There are a ton of direct routes to Edinburgh from major US airports, which makes it an easy trip for any time of the year!

We flew from RDU (Raleigh-Durham) to MCO (Orlando) and then MCO to EDI (Edinburgh) on Virgin Atlantic. I really enjoyed my flight experience with them, and highly recommend flying with them if you get the chance! It was definitely one of the most comfortable airplane seats I have experienced which is saying something when you are short and have chronic pain!

Edinburgh Castle

What You Need to Know Before You Go

General

Scotland is part of the United Kingdom (no longer in the EU).

Weather

The weather in April is kind of all over the place, so be sure to pack layers! We had one day that was a high of 60 F, but most of the time it was in the low 50s. It will also rain (not for very long) so be sure to pack a waterproof jacket! You can check out my Scotland Packing Guide for more information on how to dress for Scotland.

Money Stuff

Scotland uses GBP like England. The USD is weak compared to the GBP, so when you see something that is 15 GBP and get excited (like me) just remember that it's actually way more than that 😂

Languages

Everyone speaks English, but the Scottish accent can be hard to understand at times. Everyone is super friendly though, so if you ask them politely to repeat themselves, they will!

Safety

I felt very safe in Scotland, so as long as you use common sense you will be just fine. I even kept my phone in my back pocket a lot of times (do as I say, not as I do 😂) . If you are ever nervous about traveling to a new place or traveling solo, I highly recommend you take some self-defense classes. Learn why martial arts are so benefical for anxiety here!

Where to Stay in Edinburgh

empty early morning cobbled streets in Grassmarket Edinburgh Scotland

Grassmarket in Edinburgh

The most walkable place to stay in Edinburgh is definitely the Old Town. If you can find a hotel in this area within your budget, you will be able to walk to everything within about 15 minutes! There are also a ton of gluten-free dining options around the area, so if you have a gluten allergy or are celiac, you won't have any issues finding something to eat!

Another great option is the New Town, just on the other side of Princes street. Again, it is super walkable and there are many gluten-free dining options there as well!

If you are looking for that old world charm, you can't go wrong with Grassmarket in the Old Town. You are right in the heart of the most historical and instagrammable spots in Edinburgh. We stayed at Wilde Aparthotel by Staycity, with a view of Edinburgh Castle from our window!

Hotel Recommendation for One Week in Scotland Without a Car

welcome area with two white balloons and a blue neon sign that reads "wilde aparthotel by staycity"

As an anxious/sensitive traveler, I am alllllll about finding the best hotels because I like to be very comfortable, feel safe, and have a nice place to rest and process the day. I'll be posting a full review soon, but in the meantime here's my takeaway on Wilde Aparthotel by Staycity.

Pros: Location, View, & Design

Seriously, you cannot get a better location in Edinburgh. And if you love castles, having a view of Edinburgh Castle from your window is AMAZING! There are tons of restaurants within walking distance, the Royal Mile and Victoria Street are about 3 mins away. I really liked the decor of the hotel too. It was designed with Oscar Wilde in mind, and you could really feel it in the details of everything! The rooms were all smart rooms too, which was really cool once you figured out how all the buttons actually worked 😂

Cons: Rooms & Mattress

We sleep on a Purple mattress, and I love it. It's honestly my favorite part about coming home from trips. I also feel like I am the princess from the book Princess and the Pea because I can literally feel any sort of lump, bump, or dip in a mattress 🤣. The mattress here was SO FIRM. I asked the manager for extra comforters and piled them up to sleep on, so thankfully I was able to work around it. But be warned if you love soft mattresses like me! The room was rather small too, but it did have a kitchenette which was really convenient to reheat leftovers or make tea and coffee!

king size bed on a platform at Wilde Aparthotel by Staycity in Edinburgh Scotland

full room view at wilde aparthotel by staycity in edinburgh scotland

shower and towel drying rack at wilde aparthotel by staycity in edinburgh scotland

kitchenette at Wilde Aparthotel by Staycity in Edinburgh Scotland

bathroom at wilde aparthotel by staycity in edinburgh scotland

My husband and I were pretty nervous about driving on the opposite side of the road, so we decided to create our itinerary based on where we could go for one week in Scotland without a car. We will most definitely go back for a highlands tour because I cannot wait to go to Isle of Skye!

We took an Uber from the airport to our hotel, and the first time he went through a roundabout my sleep deprived brain starting sounding the alarm that we were going to run head on into the other cars 😂. But I have heard from others that after about an hour of driving you get used to it!

Day 1: Arrival, Grassmarket, The Royal Mile, Scotch Whisky Experience

We arrived in Edinburgh around 6:30 AM local time, which was probably the earliest I've ever arrived at a European destination! We went straight to our hotel to drop off our luggage until we could check in, and then wandered down the Royal Mile until we found some breakfast. Most restaurants don't open until 8 AM, so we had to wait about 20 minutes before going into Loudons for breakfast. I had a Full Breakfast (gluten-free, and options are clearly marked on the menu) and hot chocolate to warm up!

hot chocolate in a small mug on a wood table at Loudon's in Edinburgh Scotland

Hot Chocolate at Loudons

Royal Mile

After breakfast, wander around the Royal Mile, stop in some shops, and admire the historic architecture all around you. The Royal Mile connects Edinburgh Castle to Hollyrood Palace where the Queen stays when she visits Scotland. Other highlights include: Camera Obscura & World of Illusions, Dunbar's Close (perfect little oasis for anxious travelers), St Giles Cathedral, Scotch Whisky Experience, Scottish Parliament, and many museums!

You can pick at least one of those to visit if you still have time before you can check in to your hotel. We were able to check in early-ish so we went back to our hotel for a quick nap and to change clothes before going out again.

Scotch Whisky Experience + Dinner

a sign on a wood wall that reads "the Scotch Whisky Experience"

After our nap, we went to the Scotch Whisky Experience. There are many different packages to choose from, but I recommend going for the gold over the silver. At the gold level, you will get to taste whisky from each of the 5 regions in Scotland, and at the silver level you only taste one.

After you are sufficiently drunk on great Scotch, head to Howies on Victora Street for dinner. I had the catch of the day and Andrew had the chicken breast. Both were delicious and gluten free options are available here!

Most of this itinerary is based in Edinburgh, so it makes it a breeze to spend one week in Scotland without a car.

Day 2: Dean Village, Circle Street, Massage, New Town, Scottish Pubs

Dean Village in Edinburgh

Dean Village + Circle Street

Dean Village is everything you picture in a little Scottish village. The colorful houses and stream that runs through the center make for a great retreat from the hustle and bustle of the Old City. It is super Instagrammable, and Circle Street is right around the corner too! Make sure to bring your camera and tripod to get the best possible photos!

To get from Dean Village to Circle Street, walk along the Water of Leith to spend some extra time in nature. We got a massage/float session combo at the Floatarium Spa which is right by Circle St. It was my first time doing a float and it was SO helpful for jetlag! I felt refreshed and ready to continue exploring. You can walk down Circle St and take photos before or after your float/massage, whatever works best for your schedule!

Circle Street in Edinburgh

New Town, Dinner, + Scottish Pubs

On your walk back to your hotel, you will pass through the New Town. You can stop in shops or explore some of the side streets. Once you get to Princes Street, you will be treated to a different view of Edinburgh Castle! Next, head to Bertie's Restaurant & Bar to get fish & chips. They have gluten free fish & chips, and it was soooooo good. Like, melt in your mouth good. We ended up going there a few times because it was that amazing!

After, find a Scottish pub to enjoy some ale or whisky and soak in some Scottish culture! The White Hart Inn in Grassmarket is the oldest (and most haunted) pub in Edinburgh. It opened in 1516, which was a longgggg time ago. There was a musician playing guitar while we were there, and I really felt like I got an authentic Scottish vibe!

the white hart inn is the oldest pub in scotland, located in grassmarket

We accidentally slept until noon this day, so we didn't get to do everything we planned. You can add in some additional activities like an Underground Edinburgh Tour or take the day to rest and recover from jetlag like we did! This one week in Scotland without a car itinerary has some flexibility for extra activities we didn't get to.

Day 3: Day Trip to St. Andrews and Dundee

the ruins of st andrew's castle sit right on the beach where there are tide pools, moss, and seaweed covering the landscape leading up to the castle in st. andrew's scotland

St Andrew's Castle Ruins

The train system in Scotland is excellent, and one of the main reasons we created this one week in Scotland without a car itinerary! For this day, I recommend taking a train first to St Andrews and then taking the bus from St Andrews to Dundee. On your return, you will take a train from Dundee to Edinburgh.

I recommend leaving on the first train from Edinburgh as it will take you a little over 90 minutes to get to St Andrews. The bus from St Andrews (Leuchars) to Dundee takes about 30 minutes. And the train from Dundee to Edinburgh takes about 90 minutes too. Not bad travel times for a day trip!

You can buy your tickets on arrival at the train station (Edinburgh Waverly) or you can get a Scotrail pass if you plan on being in the country for a while. For your ticket to St Andrews, you will actually be buying to Leuchars, which is where you will get off and take a short bus ride into St Andrews. You can pay with a credit card when you hop on the bus too, so no need to have cash or buy a ticket in advance!

St. Andrews Things to Do

Ruins of St. Andrew's Cathedral

The highlights of St Andrews are:

St Andrews Cathedral
St Andrews Castle
St Andrews University
Lots of golf courses!

You are likely to see lots of students walking around and dining in the local restaurants. Unfortunately, when we went, the castle and cathedral ruins were closed due to preservation efforts. Be sure to check in advance if the attractions you want to see are open or not!

You can spend about 3 hours in St Andrews and see the highlights. We ate breakfast at Mitchell on Market Street, and it was delicious (with gluten free options too).

Check out my full St Andrew’s Day Trip post!

Dundee Things to Do

the top deck of the discovery ship covered in rope, wood, and sails, once an Antarctic cruiser, now sits in the harbor of Dundee Scotland

Deck on the Discovery

The highlights of Dundee are:

HMS Unicorn
Discovery Point
Broughty Ferry Castle
Tay Rail Bridge
Claypotts Castle (FYI you have to make an appointment to see this one)
Mills Observatory

There are a ton of beaches (yes, sand beaches!) and museums in Dundee too. We got really lucky and had sunny and 60 degree F weather this day on our trip! We spent about 6 hours in Dundee, and we got around using the local bus system. Broughty Ferry Castle was really cool, especially since the beach there was so nice!

You definitely want to take a bus over there, it would be a long walk otherwise! Check Google Maps for up to date bus information. I love using Google Maps to plan my trips because it makes it easy to save locations I want to see and then easily map between them to get the best routes!

You can read more about spending a day in Dundee here.

Claypotts Castle

broughty ferry castle sits just above the sandy beach near dundee scotland — Broughty Castle

Day 4: Rosslyn Chapel, Calton Hill, Greyfriars Kirkyard

I'm gonna praise Edinburgh's public transport again for this trip. It is really so easy to use the bus system! From Edinburgh city center to Rosslyn Chapel is about an hour on the bus, or you can take an Uber on the way there in about 15 mins if you want to save some time. The public transport system is so helpful when you want to spend one week in Scotland without a car!

Roslyn Chapel in Edinburgh Scotland can be seen through the blooming branches of a cherry blossom tree

Rosslyn Chapel

Rosslyn Chapel became famous because of The Da Vinci Code by Dan Brown. If you are a fan of his work, this is a must see! The Chapel itself is gorgeous, so many intricate carvings and so much mystery of course 😊. I recommend buying a ticket in advance so you can get a guided (ish) tour, where the guide will give you all sorts of historical information and point out particular carvings around the cathedral.

Afterward, take a walk down to the ruins of Rosslyn Castle, where the pinkish stones really pop against a gray Scottish sky! Please be mindful of the residents of the house nearby and don't intrude on their land or privacy.

the pink and brown sandstone ruins of Roslyn Castle are down a dirt path over the lush green glen surrounding the castle

Rosslyn Castle Ruins

If you are up for some hiking, there is a park surrounding the area with lots of hiking and nature trails. We even saw some deer while we were out!

Calton Hill

Calton Hill has some of the best views in Edinburgh! You can see all the most famous historical sites from there. In April, all the flowers were blooming and I got some amazing photos there! It is popular with both locals and tourists, so expect there to be many people around, especially on a nice weather day.

Calton Hill has a park with several historical and national monuments, and Hollyrood Palace and the Scottish Government HQ are at the base of the hill if you want to explore one of those as well.

historic buildings in edinburgh's old city framed by bright yellow springtime flowers

View from Calton Hill

Elephant House and Greyfriars Kirkyard

Once you are ready to head back to your hotel, make a detour to visit The Elephant House, where Harry Potter came to life! Unfortunately, it was closed due to a kitchen fire. Hopefully, it will be open by the time you make it to Edinburgh! You can also go over to Greyfriar's Kirkyard and see "Tom Riddle's" grave and many more said to have inspired characters in the Harry Potter books. As a lifelong Harry Potter fan, this is a must do!

Day 5: Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, Holyrood Park

This day is going to be a lot of walking, so make sure your feet are nice and rested!

Edinburgh Castle

You definitely need to be here about 20 minutes before the gates open. We were first in line because we arrived 30 minutes early, and by the time they were ready to open the gate, the line to get in was down to the Scotch Whisky Experience! It's definitely one of the most popular attractions in Edinburgh, so if you are an anxious traveler like me, get an early ticket to avoid the mid day crowds.

Fortunately, the castle itself is huge and spread out, with many buildings and courtyards to explore! There are several mini museums inside where you can learn about the Scottish royalty, military regiments, and even what the prisons were like. The Scottish Crown Jewels are also stored here, but there is no photography allowed and they are very strict about enforcing it! Plan to spend around 2 hours exploring every part of this awesome castle.

Your next stop is at the other end of the Royal Mile, so plan to grab lunch somewhere along the way! There are many restaurants to choose from but we opted to go back to Bertie's because the fish and chips were so dang good!

Holyrood Palace

Holyrood Palace in Edinburgh Scotland

Holyrood Palace is where the Queen stays when she visits Scotland. You can get a peek into the life of the Royal Family on a tour through the opulent palace. There are also extensive gardens on the grounds you can visit after (check to see if they are open, like many things for us, they were still closed).

We almost missed a whole section of the palace that detailed the life of Mary Queen of Scots, and thankfully a guide stopped us before we left and pointed us in the direction of what we missed! The door is hard to see unless you go all the way to the end of the gallery, and if you are like us and don't go all the way into the room you will miss it. Be sure to ask if you get lost or confused, the staff is so nice and helpful!

a grand piano, harp, and red velvet high backed chairs in a lavish room belonging to the British Royal Family in Holyrood Palace in Edinburgh Scotland

a painting of a former British monarch hangs on a wood wall surrounded by plush red accents in Holyrood Palace in Edinburgh Scotland

Part of Holyrood Palace in Edinburgh Scotland is roped and fenced off while construction is done

Holyrood Park

In Hollyrood Park, there are many hiking trails with epic views of Edinburgh. I think some of the views are better than Calton Hill! We opted to go to the highest point in the park, but there is a lower viewing point if you aren't up for a strenuous hike. St Anthony's Chapel ruins, Bronze and Iron Age sites, and a beautiful loch are also great places to explore in the park if hiking isn't your thing.

The highest point takes about an hour to hike to, and it's definitely an uphill battle 😂. I took a few breaks along the way to catch my breath, and there is no shame in that! Make sure to wear layers because you will definitely be taking them on and off throughout the hike.

There are an abundance of beautiful yellow flowers covering the mountainside in April, so the scenery was absolutely gorgeous. Bring your camera and a telephoto lens to take lots of photos!

a distant view of Edinburgh Castle in Scotland from Arthur's Seat on the outskirts of Edinburgh in Hollyrood Park

View of Edinburgh Castle from Holyrood Park

University of Edinburgh + Dinner

On the way back to get dinner, we took a different route so we could walk through the University of Edinburgh. I even found McEwan Hall (my family's Scottish heritage traces back through the McEwan line), which was an exciting moment for me! I loved all the historical buildings where students had classes and wish I had opted to study abroad in a place like that.

For dinner, eat at Petit Paris in Grassmarket. The intimate atmosphere and delicious French food were perfect after a long day of hiking and exploring! Spending one week in Scotland without a car definitely takes a toll on your feet 😂

Day 6: Day trip to Stirling + Sunset Photoshoot

Stirling Castle

Stirling

Stirling is known for its castle and as the site of two of Scotland's most famous military victories. You can reach it by train from Edinburgh in about 45 minutes, which makes it a perfect day trip! You can check google maps for train times, and it is easy to buy a ticket when you get to the train station.

Stirling Castle was honestly my favorite out of all the castles we saw on the one week in Scotland without a car itinerary. Like Edinburgh Castle, it is really spread out with lots of buildings to explore. You can see how the kitchens used to operate, explore Queen Anne's gardens, view the Stirling heads, and learn about royal life in the 1500s. I found it to be very interactive and really enjoyed my time!

Stirling Castle in Scotland is a must see on a one week scotland itinerary without a car. The vast castle has many buildings including this one with its burnt orange walls, stained glass windows, and turrets.

lush green grass in queen mary's gardens at Stirling Castle in Scotland, with Stirling Castle sitting in the background

Other things to do in Stirling (check for opening times/dates):

Old Town Jail
Argyll's Lodging
Battle of Bannockburn
Curly Coo Bar

The National Wallace Monument is in Stirling as well, but there is no easy public transport access to it, so without a car, it will be more difficult to see.

For more information about Stirling, check out my Stirling Day Trip post!

Sunset Photoshoot

lacey and andrew at the vennel steps with edinburgh castle in the background, the best photoshoot spot for one week in scotland without a car

Photoshoot at the Vennel Steps

If you stay in Grassmarket, you have the perfect opportunity to have a sunset photoshoot at one of the most beautiful viewpoints of Edinburgh Castle! The Vennel has an amazing view any time of day but especially at sunset and blue hour. You can get there by walking between Kick Ass Cafe and Mary's Milk Bar. Or the spot is marked on Google Maps.

Set up your tripod in the corner on the last landing for a great angle of the castle featuring you!

Day 7: Swanston Farm, the Royal Yacht

Swanston Farm

a shaggy brown cow with large horns stands in front of a fence with rolling green hills trailing off into the distance. nature is one of the best hobbies for mental health!

Highland Cow at Swanston Farm in Edinburgh, Scotland

Swanston Farmis free to visit and has highland cows if they are a must-see for you (which they totally should be because they are adorable). Get a taste of the highlands without leaving Edinburgh! You can take an Uber (about 15 mins) or a bus (about 45 mins) depending on your budget. Start hiking on the golf course (watch out for flying balls) and up to the top of the hill where the cows like to hang out.

You can also ride Exmoor Ponies or mountain bikes if you want to spend more time there.

Please DO NOT pet the cows. They are not tame. Give them the space and respect they deserve and you will enjoy your time with them! Some will even pose for the camera for you.

a woman stands at the bottom of a grassy hill where a cow with large horns lays at the top. she is holding a camera and photographing the cow

Royal Yacht

Last but not least, visit Edinburgh's harbor district where the former Royal Yacht sits. We opted to take an Uber from Swanston Farm to save time, but you can take a bus as well. Explore the decks of the yacht to learn about life on the ship, its history, and how the royal family traveled on it. It was really interesting and you can even have high tea there if you want!

Next, wander along the Water of Leith to grab dinner at Fisher's on the Shore. A reservation is highly recommended for this intimate restaurant, and the food was delicious! Seafood can't get any fresher than this!

Day 8: Return Home

It's always sad to leave a destination you love! The Edinburgh airport is actually smaller than I expected. You definitely need to plan for traffic on the way there though! You can either Uber, Bus, or take a train to the airport. We opted for Uber since we had all our bags.

the scott monument in edinburgh scotland silhouetted against the colorful setting sun

Scott Monument at Sunset

Other Things to Do for One Week in Scotland without a Car

These are some of the other things we had planned but either didn't get to because we ran out of time or opted not to do because it was closed. (unfortunately had a lot closed while we were there 😭)

Linlithgow Castle + Blackness Castle
Edinburgh Underground Tour
Edinburgh Ghost Tour

Edinburgh has so many amazing spots, it is easy to stay there for one week in Scotland without a car!

Final thoughts on One Week in Scotland Without a Car

I hope you enjoyed this itinerary! There are so many places to see it is hard to fit it all into one week. We will definitely go back to visit the Scottish Highlands some day! Every corner of Edinburgh was a photographer's dream, and there were so many Instragrammable spots. One week in Scotland is totally doable without a car!