How to Visit the Galapagos Islands Without a Cruise
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Why You Should Visit the Galapagos Islands
Charles Darwin made the Galapagos Islands famous through his naturalist works and theories of evolution. In these volcanic islands off the coast of Ecuador, there are species that cannot be found anywhere else in the world, and even between islands, the flora and fauna evolved differently. The waters around the islands contain vibrant fish and massive sea turtles, making for some of the best snorkeling I’ve ever done. If you are a nature enthusiast, the Galapagos Islands should definitely be on your bucket list.
But if you’re like me, cruises and boats make you anxious, and you want to know how you can go to the Galapagos Islands without a cruise. Not to mention that the cruises can get quite pricey!
Marine Iguana at the fish market in Puerto Ayora
What You Need to Know Before You Go to the Galapagos Islands
General
The Galapagos Islands are off the coast of Ecuador in South America. There are two airports: one in Santa Cruz and another in San Cristobal. No matter if you go to the Galapagos Islands without a cruise or with a cruise, you are required to have a guide at all times. You can walk around the cities to go or some beaches without one, but if you want to look for any wildlife, you need one. The flora and fauna are very protected, so do your part and pick up after yourself, and don’t stray off predetermined paths!
Money
Ecuador’s currency is the United States Dollar (USD). If you’re coming from the US, you don’t need to change money. If you’re coming from Europe, you’ll need to convert currencies before you leave or upon arrival. When you make change, you might receive Ecuador specific coins, so try to spend those before you leave! You need to bring lots of cash or an ATM card. Most places do not take credit cards. We brought $1500 for seven days (including our time in Quito) and went through most of it. Make sure to get singles from your bank, because tipping is expected for someone carrying your bag, taxis, etc.
Language
Spanish is the primary language in Ecuador. In the Galapagos, the term “English speaking guide” is a very loose interpretation. From our experience, the guides have their lines memorized in English, but you can’t have a conversation or ask complicated questions in English. Brushing up on Spanish would be extremely helpful before going as well as downloading the offline version of Spanish on Google Translate.
Safety
I felt safe in the Galapagos, though I kept my phone and camera close or in my bag when I wasn’t actively using them.
A Giant Tortoise at Rancho Primicas on Santa Cruz Island in the Galapagos
Tips for Travelers with Anxiety in the Galapagos
Visiting the Galapagos Islands without a cruise is a great option for travelers with anxiety or anyone who is not a fan of boats. Personally, boats send me into a panic, and we did only one day trip on the interisland ferries. It is totally possible to not step foot on a boat while you’re in the Galapagos, but you might miss out on some amazing wildlife. The itinerary I put together minimizes boat time while maximizing wildlife sightings, so keep reading!
Download the offline version of Spanish on Google Translate so you don’t have issues communicating in the Galapagos.
If you book a boat tour, check the moon phases. The water is calmer in the “halfway” points in the moon cycle. The times closest to the new moon and full moon have the roughest waters.
Eat before you get on the boat to prevent seasickness. If you get motion sick, you need Sea Bands, Dramamine, or anything else that helps you with motion sickness. I can almost guarantee the rough waters between islands will set it off. But the sights are absolutely worth it, so keep your eyes on the prize!
Book your tours online in advance, or book everything the day you get there. North Seymour is extremely popular because that is where the largest colonies of Blue Footed Boobys are, and that will sell out days in advance. While you will save money by booking locally over on a website like Viator, if you book on Viator in advance your spot is guaranteed for the tours you want. If you’re visiting the Galapagos Islands without a cruise, this is the only way to guarantee you get to go where you want to go.
UV PROTECTION. I got the worst sunburn of my life in about 20 minutes. Whether that looks like UV clothing (highly recommend), covering up (highly recommend), or sunscreen, you need protection. If you use sunscreen, PLEASE rinse off before getting in the water to protect the environment, or if you cannot go without it, use only REEF SAFE sunscreen. Rent a wetsuit no matter what the water temperature is for extra sun protection while swimming and snorkeling.
Los Gemelos
How to get to the Galapagos Islands Without a Cruise
Airports in Mainland Ecuador
To get to the Galapagos Islands, you will fly into either Quito (more likely) or Guayaquil. If you fly into Quito, you will have a short layover where you do not deplane in Guayaquil before continuing on to the Galapagos Islands. However, when you get to Quito, you need to fill out a few forms before you are allowed to board your plane. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT AND DO NOT SKIP THIS. We missed the location and almost missed our flight.
When you arrive at the airport in Quito to go to the Galapagos, you need to visit two places, both on the far right side of the departure area. The first is a booth where people sit behind glass and it has a long phrase in Spanish above it (forgot to take a pic). There you will have to hand them your passport and pay $20 per person (cash) to obtain a transit card. Next, scan your baggage at the x-ray scanner against the far right wall, near section A. Once you’ve completed these steps, you can continue through security and to your gate. If you get lost or confused, there will be many guides helping those who are going on cruises that you can ask for help.
Entering the Galapagos Islands
If you arrive in Santa Cruz for your trip to the Galapagos Islands without a cruise, you have to go through a few additional steps. First, you have to visit the transit center, hand them your transit card, and pay $100 per person (cash only) to enter the national park. Afterward, you must wait for them to scan your bags again in addition to your checked bags being examined by sniffing dogs. Once you’ve cleared the arrivals part of the airport, you need to take a bus to the water taxis. Tickets are $5 per person, and the water taxi is $1 per person. After the water taxi, you have the option of taking a bus or taxi into Puerto Ayora. The bus is $5 per person and a taxi is $25. We opted for a taxi because it was much faster and took us directly to our hotel. The drive is between 45 mins and 1 hour.
To recap, once you arrive in the Galapagos Islands without a cruise, you will pay at least $111 per person (only cash) to get to Puerto Ayora and it will take you at least 2 hours from landing to reach your hotel.
Blue Footed Booby from Half Day Bay Trip in Puerto Ayora
When to Plan Your Galapagos Trip
The Galapagos Islands are on the equator, which means there are two seasons: rain and a little less rain. Each day is roughly the same with the sun rising around 6 AM and setting around 6 PM. We went in April, but I’ve heard from others who have been during other months that they are about the same unless there is something you want to see specifically with the wildlife. For example, the mating season for the Blue Footed Boobys is in the summer, so if you want to see them perform a mating dance, you want to book your trip to the Galapagos Islands without a cruise then.
Regardless of what month you select, the calmest waters are at the halfway points during the moon cycles. As long as you aren’t booking your trip over the new moon or the full moon, the waters will be calm-ish.
Where to Stay in the Galapagos Islands
There are only a few inhabited islands in the Galapagos: Santa Cruz, San Cristobal, and Isabella. Santa Cruz and San Cristobal have airports, so if you are trying to avoid boats completely, you will want to stay on one of those islands. If you want to minimize boat time but are still open to taking the interisland ferries, you can stay on Isabella after arriving/staying on Santa Cruz.
Isabella is a volcanic island with spectacular hiking and wildlife sightings as well as great snorkeling. Hotels here sell out quickly, so booking 6 months in advance is recommended, especially if you want to stay in a higher-end hotel.
Santa Cruz is the most popular island, and Puerto Ayora is the main city. We stayed right on the water and listened to the ocean as we slept every night. It doesn’t get better than that! Read my full review of our hotel, Villa Escalecia!
San Cristobal also has an airport, which you can fly into from the mainland or from Santa Cruz. The main city is Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, the second largest city in the Galapagos.
Las Grietas
Galapagos Islands Without a Cruise Itinerary
This Galapagos Islands without a cruise itinerary is a bit different from the one we did. I made the mistakes so you don’t have to! This itinerary focuses on more land based activities with a hint of snorkeling, and you won’t visit as many islands. I have a note at the end about day trips if you don’t mind boats but are trying to save money by not taking a cruise.
Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz has so many options for exploring both on land and in the sea. While we stayed here the whole time, you could see everything in about 3 days if you did multiple activities every day on your Galapagos Islands without a cruise itinerary. From Santa Cruz, you’ll also want to explore North Seymour, which can be reached by boat in about 50 minutes. This boat is slower than the speedboats that make up the fleet of interisland ferries.
Puerto Ayora
View from our hotel in Puerto Ayora
Puerto Ayora is where you’ll stay on your trip to the Galapagos without a cruise. Here you can find many fantastic restaurants, and if you love sushi, it is some of the freshest you will ever eat. The Fish Market is the place to be around sunrise and sunset, with Sea Lions, Marine Iguanas, Pelicans, and small Sharks and Rays circling the waters around it.
Tortuga Bay
Two Pelicans at Tortuga Bay in Santa Cruz Island
A short walk from Puerto Ayora, Tortuga Bay is one of the best places to surf or swim near the town. To get there, head to Centro de Energia Renovable and follow the signs to the entrance to the park, where you’ll find a breathtaking view of the city. There is also a bathroom there, which I highly recommend using before you go to the beach, as there are no amenities there. Afterward, you’ll follow a stone path through a forest of trees and cacti, spotting Lava Lizards and birds, for about 30 minutes before reaching the first beach. There are two, and the first one is for surfing, so you need to hang a right to reach the calmer waters that are safe for swimming. The beach boasts pristine white sand and black lava rocks, creating a picturesque contrast with the bright blue waters.
Highlands + Lava Tunnels + Los Gemelos
This tour is often offered by taxi drivers on your way to or from the airport. You can also take a taxi at any time up to these spots in the Highlands. The best spot is Rancho Primicas, where the lava tunnels are extensive and you can see Giant Tortoises that are hundreds of years old wandering the ranch after. The entrance fee is $7.50 per person (cash only) and your guide will walk you around the ranch while educating you about the tortoises and their history.
Los Gemelos, or the Twin Craters, are magma pits that collapsed and are now filled with beautiful plants and trees. The view is breathtaking, and the walk between both of them is less than 20 minutes. It’s a perfect stop on your way to or from the airport on your trip to Galapagos Islands without a cruise.
Alternatively, book a half day tour in an air-conditioned car and see all three!
Garrapatero Beach
Garrapatero Beach
Garrapatero Beach is an off-the-beaten-path location where you’ll have the pristine sands all to yourself. You can rent a kayak or hang out among the mangroves to get some shade after playing in the water. There is a small lagoon where if you’re lucky you might spot some Flamingos or Herons. You can take a taxi here for a few hours and have them wait for you for about $50.
Half Day Bay Tour
If you can’t make it to North Seymour, I highly recommend taking this Half Day Bay Tour. In three hours, you can visit Las Grietas, which is a crack in the cliffs with brackish waters great for photographing and swimming, and a small bay nearby where it’s possible to see Blue Footed Boobys, Sea Lions, and snorkel with Sea Turtles. The boat is small but goes slow (it’s like a water taxi) and I had no issues on this boat.
Charles Darwin Research Station
If you are interested in seeing the Saddleback Tortoises, I would go here. If you don’t care to see them and are fine with the ones from Rancho Primicias, I would skip. For $10 per person (cash), you will have a guide repeat much of the same information and be led on a tour through what is more like a small zoo before stopping at the taxidermied body of Lonesome George.
San Cristobal
If you flew into Santa Cruz, you will need to take a ferry to get to San Cristobal, or you can fly between the islands to avoid the rough waters. The airport in San Cristobal is next to the town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, which makes it easy to get exploring right after you land.
Darwin Bay
If you want to see the spot Charles Darwin came ashore, you have to include San Cristobal on your Galapagos Islands without a cruise itinerary. You can snorkel in Darwin Bay, swimming with Sea Lions and schools of colorful fish. While walking through the Interpretation Center to reach the bay, you will find breathtaking viewpoints of Kicker Rock and a bird’s eye view of the blue water filled with lava rocks in the bay.
La Loberia
This photo is terrible quality, but it’s me and a massive sea turtle!
La Loberia is home to many Sea Turtles, and if you’ve dreamed of snorkeling with them, this is the spot to go. Remember to check the tides before you go because the high tide is the safest time to swim and snorkel there, as well as hang out with these beautiful sea creatures.
Other Activities
While we didn’t stay on San Cristobal, you can fly here from Santa Cruz and vice versa. You might need 2 days here on your Galapagos Islands without a cruise itinerary, possibly three if you want to see everything the island has to offer, including another breeding center for the giant tortoises, hikes through the highlands, or a small boat trip to Kicker Rock or Los Lobos.
If you’re interested in these spots, we took this full day trip from Santa Cruz to San Cristobal with a private guide. It was incredible, and we got to swim with five massive sea turtles.
Day Trips Between Islands
If you want a full breakdown of all the islands, check out this post. It’s the one I referenced most when planning our trip! However, some of these islands are inaccessible on a day trip and only cruises go there, so your Galapagos Islands without a cruise itinerary will not include the more remote ones.
Here are the most common and most accessible islands from Santa Cruz:
North Seymour
Isabella
Bartolome
Santa Fe
Pinzon
Floreana
San Cristobal
Keep in mind, that all of these will require boat trips taking at least an hour. The ferry between Santa Cruz and San Cristobal is a little over two hours, and many people got sick on our ride. A local described our water as “semi-rough” meaning that it wasn’t the best but also wasn’t the worst.
You can also stay on Isabella Island, and from my research prior to our trip, 3 days is sufficient to hike the volcanoes and explore the island.
Sea Lion on San Cristobal
Final Thoughts on Galapagos Islands Without a Cruise
Traveling to the Galapagos Islands without a cruise is becoming more popular by the year, which means tours sell out fast. Make sure to book your day trips online in advance! I wanted to see how I fared on the boats before booking everything, which is totally fine if boats make you anxious too. Once you get a sense of how you can handle them, book whatever else you feel comfortable with.
The Galapagos Islands are a unique destination and great for wildlife lovers, even if you get anxious about cruises and boats. You don’t have to miss out on one of the most biodiverse places on our planet!
And if you have an overnight layover in Quito before you arrive, extend it so you can spend a day in the capital. I’ve got your guide on how to spend one day in Quito here!